Finally knuckled down to ANOTHER muslin for my silk blouse and can now move on. Thankfully all it needed was the neckline redrawing to finish at around 13cm from the midline. It is still quite fitted, so I’ve chosen 2cm seam allowances to give me some room for error and also to simplify the process if I do use French seams:
Various methods to avoid using pins! The coppers are great – you can tip them out in the middle of the pattern pieces and spread them out evenly from the centre and get them right along all the edges. Even my silk/bridal pins have marked this silk. I’ve had to cut out with pinking shears and thread trace the seam allowances.
Lots and lots of basting around the neck tucks:
and on the facings:
Speaking of which, I originally planned to finish the top with bias binding. But then I saw this set of tutorials on learning to love facings and decided that would give a much cleaner finish (particularly with sleeves). It also means I don’t have to give much thought to the construction steps. Yah!
I turned the facing hems under by stitching as close to the raw edge as I could:
Then, trimmed the excess quite aggressively and folded up again before stitching a similar distance from the edge:
I usually start an inch or so from the beginning and then turn to try to avoid that awful silk-beneath-the-plate moment. Actually that STILL happened – like an idiot I forgot to swop my needle for a shiny new 60 size.
Gah! Look what all my marking has done to the poor table.
I have to decide now whether to baste the basic pieces minus the facings to double check the fit or just go ahead. I’m still not confident after three muslins! I think I know the answer already…