Or more like take 5, as I can’t make a lot more progress on this until my buttonhole thread comes through. Last week I basted the sleeves to set them in (flat, as per the facings tutorial in my last post). The sleeves were drafted as a free pattern to accompany Sorbetto from sewweekly.com. There seemed to be about 5cm of ease in the cap. And seeing as my experience with setting in so far has consisted of trying it, getting annoyed, giving up and pleating instead I was a bit worried about getting it in smoothly. I don’t much like gathers, especially over a puffy sleeve (shudder). Conquering this on silk was not the right battle!
I wussed out and pleated 5 1cm sections across the cap and eased the rest in. Truth be told I prefer the way it looks. In future I will subtract the excess from the pattern as I always shorten the sleeve anyway.
Yes this is the same fabric – just in and out of direct light! In the interests of experimentation (read: laziness) I false french seamed one shoulder (which also included the raw edge of the facing). This was a bit too bulky, so the second time round I folded this raw edge under and stitched it invisibly to the seam. I much prefer this method in the end.
I started the French seams for the sides and sleeve seams but have not completed them (and commited myself – the silk marks once stitched). Until I can get hold of my buttonhole bits from The Lining Company (UK) this project is on the back burner!
I might use that as a excuse to start a muslin for a fitted/circle skirt dress I have in mind for this coral faille:
It has a lovely ridged texture and slight sheen.